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Sometimes, We Dye Things That Around Here That Aren’t Yarn

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This week, I needed a quick fix of color.  But I didn't have the energy for a dyeing session.  So I did these pillow cases, in roughly half an hour, using some dye that had been sitting around in my studio for almost too long (anything over six weeks starts to show its age).

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These pillowcases start life as a nice, undyed charmeuse silk (you can buy them here).  I dyed them using a quick version of the method outlined in more detail here to get a faux tie-dye effect.  I soaked the pillowcases in hot water with a bit of vinegar so the dye would strike immediately.  I made a weak solution of a base color and swished the cases around for it to take.  Then, after squeezing out the excess water, I scrunched them (as the linked article details) and poured the dye onto them.  Instead of a more traditional steamed dye bath, I nuked them in a microwave reserved just for dyeing for two minutes, let them cool, and repeated for two and one-half minutes.  The liquid ran clear after that, and I let them cool and gently laundered them.  You could also do them solid or in a much more muted crackle dye, but we needed a little bit of color around here, so I went bright.

This is the perfect easy pick me up or a great idea for a quick DIY holiday present.

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Knitting Nae, Continued.

Diane, whose beautiful photoblog is well-worth checking out, commented that she wanted to knit a Nae, but was confused by the pattern.  It can be hard to visualize before you get about one-quarter of the way into it, so here are some thoughts and pictures to help.

Photo 1

The start is the point on the left in this photo, with the cast on of a few stitches.  At this point, you begin work on what will be a 3" band of moss stitch, and it will run across the top of your shawl.  To orient yourself, visualize the start of the shawl as the top left-hand corner point of a triangle, where the base edge will be along the top of your knitting, and the point will be bottom center as your knitting grows.  This is surprisingly hard to explain — I'm not so sure that helps, so here's a bit more.

Photo 2

The starting point of the project is still on the left.  As you continue to knit the moss stitch border, on the top here, you also begin to knit the stockinette stitch triangle below it.  You do this, starting on the right side of the project, with what at first is just a couple of the stockinette stitches.  See how few stitches are on the row over on the left side?  You grow the triangle with one increase, after the first knit stitch on every right side row (every other row).  I followed the advice of some knitters who suggested increasing every fourth row, to get a less steep line.  You can see my big blue marker, reminding me to increase.  From that point on, you continue, doing the stockinette portion first, followed by the moss stitch border, and then you turn your work for the wrong side row.

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You get a better idea of it once you see it in progress.  This is about one-third of the way in.

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And here, you can see the start of the project on the left, with the moss stitch border first increasing to its full 3" width, and then the stockinette portion beginning to increase once the border is in place.

Diane, I hope this makes it all clear.  It's a lovely pattern, and although summer trips have cut into my knitting time, I want to finish this up before cooler weather hits.

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What is Your Favorite One Skein Pattern? (Blog Give Away)

Last week, I wrote about knitting small projects and enjoying the meditative value of simple knitting. So, now I'm curious: what is your favorite one skein knitting pattern?  If you tell me about your favorite pattern in the comments, you will be entered in a drawing to win yarn for your pattern choice!

Best

One skein patterns can be quick and satisfying. (Pictured above, Ellie, knitting a Cherry Branch Hat out of Elliebelly Basilisk).  Especially during the hottest part of summer, one skein knits are great projects.

In the comments below, tell me about your favorite one skein pattern.  It doesn't matter if it's written for Elliebelly yarn or not, because, patterns can be adapted to different yarns as long as the weight and drape is a good fit.  On July 1, we'll have a drawing to pick one lucky winner from the entrants.

Here are some of my other favorites one-skein projects from Ravelry knitters to get you started:

ShellBelle76 knit Malabrigo Hand Thingies in a skein of Elliebelly Coventry Cashmere.

Handthings

Angelicasays did a Rainbow Wave from Elliebelly Angel Sock.

Sedona_Wave

Squeakybeans knit some Toast armwarmers from a skein of Elliebelly Ellie-Blue Blue Faced Leicester.

Toast

What beautiful projects by a group of amazing knitters!  Post your comment below to enter the give away.  I'm looking forward to seeing what your favorite patterns are!

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Dyeing Yarn with Natural Dyes. Part Two.

This is Part Two of my tutorial on dyeing yarn with black beans.  Take a look at the preceding post to see the steps involved in preparation of the dyepot and the mordanting the yarn.  

We're at the stage where we are reading to dye the yarn.  Remove the beans from the liquid and skim any foam that has accumulated of the top of the liquid, the pour it into your dyeing vat. 

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Here is our bean bath, all ready to go.  You'll notice that it is pinkish — dripping some of the color onto paper towels gives you an even better idea of what you can expect from the dyepot.

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Since this looked a bit on the pinkish side, and I wanted to bring out the blue-green tones in the dye, I mixed a solution of soda ash and water to use in the dyebath.

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First, I gently immersed the yarn in the dyepot.  If you want even color, you could gently move the liquid through the skeins for even coverage.  But because I wanted some light variegation, I carefully placed the skeins in the pot and ensured they were covered, but made no effort to distribute the dye.  I've got all three skeins of yarn in this one pot.

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In a bit of dyeing magic, I poured the soda ash solution over the top of the pot and there was an instant color transition.  That process continued as the yarn soaked over the next 12 hours.

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Here we are at the end of the dye bath, ready for removal and rinsing.

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I very gently rinse the yarn, and then soak it in successive baths until the liquid is completely clear.  Three baths did it for this yarn, but I did a final soak in synthrapol, a dyers' soap that removes any loose dye molecules at the end of the process, before reconditioning the yarn.

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Here are my three skeins, hanging for a final bit of sun after resekeining.  

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The skein on the left is the Malabrigo.  It's a pale green, the yarn has more color than the photo.  The middle skein is the Panda silk/bamboo blend and the skein on the right is the Pixie superwash wool. Dyeing is always a subjective process, influenced by a lot of external conditions like temperature, water ph, and concentration of dye.  But in natural dyeing, the results seem to be even more variable and very exciting.  I can't wait to knit with these skeins!

Natural dyes are notoriously migrant, meaning that the dye can fade with exposure to light and washing over time.  These skeins were well mordanted, but I'm going to do a little bit of experimentation with their light and color-fast properties to see how they do.  I hope you'll try some natural dyeing too.  Please let me know if you try it and what your results are like.  You really can't go wrong.

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Dyeing Yarn with Natural Dyes. Part One.

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You will never guess.  What natural dyestuff do you think I dyed these yarns with?  It's definitely not an obvious choice, unless you've done this before, but all three of these skeins were dyed in a vat prepared from black beans.

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Here they are, soaking in the kitchen.  I use a pot with a strainer so I don't have to fish all of the beans out after the "juice" is ready, and since this is nothing but black beans, I have none of the usual worries about working in the kitchen.  

I'll include tutorial notes on the steps I took, in case you want to dye along with me.  I eye-balled the amount of water I would need to cover my skeins, and after rinsing the dust off of the beans, covered them in water, stirred them up, and left them to soak. This batch soaked for about two and one-half days.

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The day before I wanted to dye my yarn, I pulled it out to mordant.  The mordanting process makes it possible for the dye molecules to stick to the yarn molecules, much as in commercial wool dyeing where citric acid is used in the process.  There are a number of mordants available for use with natural dyes. Here, I'm using aluminum sulfate, which, although considered safe, means we're back to using designated dye pots and a mask for mixing.

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We're using skeins of three different yarn bases here, because natural dyeing produces fascinating and often unpredictable results on different fibers.  On the left is a skein of Elliebelly Pixie Superwash Merino.  The middle skein is Elliebelly Panda, a 50/50 silk bamboo mix.  The final skein is undyed Malabrigo Mecha, which is a single-ply Merino, that is not superwash.

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Here they are in the mordanting bath, with 5 tablespoons of Alum and a tablespoon of kitchen grade Cream of Tartar, which acts as a mordant/brightener.  I take close to an hour to bring the submerged yarn to a temperature where the yarn is not quite simmering.  Then, lid on but off the stove, the pot sits until the yarn is completely cool before going into the dyepot.  This is particularly important in this case, as dyeing with black beans is a cold process, and the colors gray out if heat is applied.

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Remember to use your stove fan if dyeing in the kitchen. (With thanks to my husband for the lovely magnet that graces the hood of our stove).

Tomorrow, we'll walk through the dye bath and admire the finished yarn in Part Two.

 

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Yarn: Dyed and Overdyed

As a collage artist, I spent a lot of time layering color upon color to give a piece depth and movement.  I approach dyeing yarn the same way, and layering color upon color and glazing the finished skein produces some of my favorite yarn.  This is a great approach for a novice dyer to use.  Putting on layers of color and glazing will give you a lot of insight into how dye works on yarn.

Purp
The skein on the left is the product of several dye baths, which gave it pale undertones shining through a rich blue-puple.  The skein on the right has been glazed in a deep purple, which gives it a completely different look.  You would not likely guess that the two skeins started life looking the same.

Yellowglaze

In this next case, the skein on the left is dyed a sunny yellow-orange colorway.  Unlike our example above where the glaze was a darker color in the same family, the skein on the right was glazed in a reddish brown.  This focused on the color variation in the original skein and produced a mellowed brown skein with organic color changes.

Glazing can also be done in lighter colors, or, more sparingly in black.  The secret to glazing is to work with dye that will strike immediately and stay where it is placed.  Some dyers work with a dry skein to maximize this effect.  I typically work with a very hot dye bath and mordanted yarn, along with a damp but not wet, skein.  Whatever the method, and as with anything else to do with dyeing color and fiber there are a multitude of way to produce beautiful results, dyeing and overdyeing skeins is a great method for both beginning and more advanced dyers to use.

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Baby Camel Yarn

Any yarn dyer will tell you: it's an addiction.  On a beautiful, sunny, Saturday morning, dyers will jump out of bed and get to work.

Oldbricks2

Even though dyeing yarn to sell at the moment, my desire to dye yarn has never disappeared.  And I've had a lot of freedom to experiment with yarns, colors and processes.  One of my early experiments was with some ridiculously expensive but incredibly soft and beautiful Baby Camel yarn, in an 8-ply aran weight.  I loved the yarn, which I dyed up in baby sweater skein quantities for myself.  It's delightful.

I've been happily knitting an Antler Sweater from this yarn, so I was excited last night, when I went to pull some summer clothes out of my cedar closet, and realized there was a box of yarn I had dyed for myself tucked behind them.  (I feel horrible for my children — I have more stash than I can knit with in this life, and I know that after I die, they will be stuck having one of those horrible estate sales and trying not to laugh at the huge quantity of yarn I dyed for myself but never got around to knitting).  My favorite colorway in the box is this:

Oldbricks

The colorway is Old Brick, dyed on Baby Camel yarn.  What a fantastic surprise to rediscover it, along with all of it's other "friends" in the box.  Even if I never get around to knitting with all of them, it's nice just to fondly pet them and look them over.  Sometimes, a dyer just has to dye.  That seems to be the case for me, especially in summer, with perfect weather and lots of inspiration!